On certain evenings, Hoi An's Old Town seems to slow down by a beat: the electric lights soften, the lanterns glow, and the call of bài chòi (a folk card game sung aloud) drifts up from the riverbank. This is the 14th night of every lunar month, when the whole quarter brings back the Hoi An of old. If your trip lands on this night, give the whole evening to the streets.
What is the Old Town night?
Since the late 1990s, Hoi An has held its Old Town night on the 14th night of each lunar month, the night before the full moon. As darkness falls, homes and shops in the Old Town cut back on electric lighting and leave the glow to lanterns and candles. The main streets are for pedestrians only, and folk cultural activities unfold along the streets and the riverbank.
The night exists to revive the rhythm of everyday life in the past and to let the local community keep its traditions alive together. Many stops are run by residents, clubs and family bands, so every month feels a little different. Since Hoi An became part of Da Nang City in mid-2025, local tourism authorities have said they will keep the tradition going.
Lanterns, bài chòi and folk pastimes
Hoi An lanterns are usually made of a bamboo frame covered in colorful silk. On full-moon night they hang from eaves, along the Hoai River and on familiar streets such as Tran Phu, Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang. With the electric lights turned down, gold, red and purple glows spill across the water, and the whole district looks like an old painting that has just been lit.
The signature sound of the night is the bài chòi call. The art of Bài chòi in Central Vietnam was inscribed by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in December 2017. Players hold cards printed with the names of the game's cards; the caller, known as anh hiệu or chị hiệu, draws one card at a time from a bamboo tube and sings a verse naming that card for everyone to guess. Whoever completes the set on their own card shouts “tới” (“I've got it!”), and the whole courtyard bursts into laughter.
Depending on the month, you may also come across traditional music groups, poetry recitals, xiangqi (Chinese chess) boards, human chess, or performances of traditional martial arts and tuồng (classical Vietnamese opera). The full moon is also when many families light incense and eat vegetarian, so the Old Town feels both lively and quietly contemplative.
Floating flower lanterns on the Hoai River: beautiful, but be mindful
Releasing a flower lantern is the moment many people wait for. Each paper lantern carries a small candle and is set onto the Hoai River with a wish for the peace of family and loved ones. You can buy one at the stalls along the riverbank and release it from the steps, or take a short boat ride and set it down mid-river.
A river is beautiful because it is clean, so release your lantern like a considerate guest:
- One lantern is enough for one wish. Choose paper ones and avoid lanterns with plastic or foam bases.
- Lower the lantern gently onto the water. Don't throw it from a height, and don't release it with plastic bags, plastic cups or other items.
- Don't lean out over the water's edge, and always hold young children's hands on the steps by the river.
- On a boat, wear a life jacket, stay seated, and ask about the route and duration before boarding.
- If you only want to watch, standing on a bridge or along the bank as the little lights drift slowly by is already lovely.
Tips for a full-moon night you'll remember
A few small tips to keep your evening relaxed:
- Arrive before sunset to watch the Old Town shift from day to night, and have a light dinner before you start strolling.
- Park outside the Old Town and walk. Wear comfortable shoes, because you'll be on your feet a lot.
- Keep your wallet and phone secure in crowded spots such as around the Japanese Covered Bridge (Chùa Cầu), An Hoi Bridge and the Hoai riverbank.
- When photographing the bài chòi callers or performers, turn off your flash, don't set up a tripod that blocks the walkway, and ask permission before taking close-ups.
- The program can change from month to month, and the rainy season from around September to December depends on the weather, so check the latest information before you go.
Drop by Nhà An Hoi An after a night stroll
Nhà An Hoi An is the yellow house in the heart of the Old Town, currently being finished and getting ready to welcome guests. When it opens, we plan to light lanterns every evening, brew Hoi An lotus tea and wood-fired roasted oolong, and offer a Lantern Corner for photos after 6:00 PM alongside an Áo dài Studio to capture the full-moon streets.
Everything on the Nhà An menu is vegetarian, a perfect fit for full-moon day. We plan to be open 24/7, with a late-night vegetarian kitchen from 10:00 PM to 4:00 AM, so when the streets thin out you'll still have a seat and a pot of hot tea. The address and opening date will be announced on the Nhà An website and Zalo.
